In November 1533, Francisco Pizarro rode triumphantly into Cuzco, the
royal capital of the Inca empire, and took stock of its storied
treasures. With just 180 hardened soldiers of fortune at his command,
the cunning Spanish conquistador had ambushed— and then executed by
strangulation— the emperor Atahuallpa, prompting the royal Inca army of
30,000 to retreat. Pizarro, a former foundling and swineherd, could
scarcely believe the booty that awaited him. Some of his men had already
pried loose golden plaques from the temple of the sun and filled their
saddle packs with silver statues. They had stripped golden masks and
staffs from the mummified bodies of Inca sovereigns and eyed the vast
estates they would soon claim for their own. But Pizarro and his
plundering band of adventurers ignored perhaps the greatest treasure of
all: the rare and luxurious fabrics that were the foundation of Inca
wealth.

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Shearing
clippers lie forgotten amid a tangle of coarse fleece in a modern
Peruvian fiber factory. Nearly half of Peru's alpacas produce fleece
that is either unusable or suitable only for rough blankets. But the
alpaca mummy (right) had fleece fine enough to make fabric fit for
royalty. The alpaca, a two-year-old male, was buried 1,000 years ago
with a color-matched guinea pig offering placed on its chest.
Photo by Grant Delin |
The
Inca were cloth makers, the likes of whom Europe had never known. Inca
weavers made bridges from cords, wove roofs from fibers, and counted
their wealth not in scribbles on a page but in patterns of knots on
woolen strands. And they wove a woolen fabric from the fleece of the
alpaca, a small, slender member of the camel family, that was so soft
and alluring it was prized above almost all else in the highland empire
centered in what is now Peru. Among the people of the Andes, cloth was
currency. Inca emperors rewarded the loyalty of their nobles with gifts
of soft fabric made by expert weavers. They gave away stacks of fine
woolen textiles to assuage the pride of defeated lords. They paid their
armies in silky smooth material. For an emperor intent on glory, as most
Inca emperors were, cloth making was a major enterprise of state. The
imperial textile warehouses were so precious that Inca armies
deliberately set them afire when retreating from battle, depriving their
enemies of that which made them strong.
Pizarro and his comrades
had crossed an ocean in quest of glittering gold and silver, not
fabric. And the viceroys who succeeded Pizarro were similarly oblivious.
In the chaos and devastation that followed the Spanish conquest, the
soft seductive cloth coveted by Inca royalty disappeared with the Inca
themselves. Meanwhile, all across remote Andean valleys, once prosperous
villages fell into a poverty that has endured for five centuries.
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El
Yaral and Chiribaya Alta, two sites where naturally desiccated alpaca
and llama mummies were found, are located in one of the driest places on
Earth— a coastal desert that receives less than four fifths of an inch
of water annually.
Graphics by Matt Zang |
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The
fabled fabric of the Inca was seemingly lost forever until Jane
Wheeler, an American archaeozoologist, made a surprising discovery a
decade ago while examining some mummified alpacas and llamas that her
colleagues had unearthed in the small pre-Columbian village of El Yaral.
The ancient animals were almost perfectly preserved, right down to the
fringes of their eyelashes. "It was just incredible," recalls Wheeler.
"The animals were invaluable, a thousand years old and still intact."
When Wheeler later examined skin samples from the animal mummies in
microscopic detail, she noticed something more remarkable. The ancient
fibers of the alpacas' fleece were as soft as a baby's hair compared
with that produced by the alpacas that are ubiquitous in modern Peru. If
only Peruvians could resurrect these lost breeds, she mused, they could
produce textiles rivaling cashmere and, in the process, lift themselves
out of poverty.

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A
typical burial shroud of the Chiribaya people, precursors of the Inca,
features elaborate llama icons. Lice clung to llama fleece (below) found
in one grave, suggesting that the Chiribaya were canny ritualists who
sacrificed diseased or inferior animals to the gods and saved the
healthy ones.
Photo by Grant Delin |

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Wheeler
took up the crusade. She knocked on embassy doors, cultivated Peruvian
textile manufacturers, buttonholed politicians, and mustered an
international team of geneticists and biodiversity experts. Today Peru
is still years away from reproducing those pre-Columbian animals or
producing Inca-quality cloth, but Wheeler has clearly proven that her
quest is not quixotic. She has established a major alpaca DNA bank in
Lima, shed light on the mysterious origins of the alpaca, devised tests
for discerning alpaca hybrids from purebreds, and mapped out a project
to search for the alpaca's fine-fiber gene. "She's worked extremely
hard," says English archaeozoologist Juliet Clutton-Brock, the managing
editor of the Journal of Zoology and one of the world's leading authorities on the origins of animal domestication, "and she's produced some excellent results."
Wheeler,
57, is a visiting professor at San Marcos University in Lima and
supports her research by stringing together grants. In her small,
cluttered office in a veterinary science building, she fumes as she
lists some of the recent obstacles she's encountered in her work:
recalcitrant Peruvian customs officials who refused to clear the
expensive radioactive isotopes she needed for DNA testing; thieves who
made off with her camera and best lens; and an absentminded laboratory
assistant who blew the power supply of an expensive American machine for
analyzing DNA by plugging it into a 220-volt Peruvian outlet. Wheeler
takes each setback personally. "Sometimes I really feel like quitting,"
she says, shaking her head.
What keeps her going is a love of
Peru and its alpacas. Wheeler's office is just around the corner from a
campus clinic that tends to alpacas. Her Peruvian husband, a veterinary
pathologist, is an expert on the quarantine of alpacas. Wheeler dines
regularly on alpaca meat, preferring it to beef, dresses in alpaca-wool
sweaters, and sports an alpaca brooch. Her 4-year-old son Daniel has
spent so much time in the company of alpacas that he has assumed some of
their manners. When he gets angry, he spits.
Before her
encounter with mummified alpacas, however, Wheeler had no inkling that
living alpacas would become such a fundamental part of her life. A
decade ago, while a professor of anthropology at the University of
Colorado at Boulder, she was analyzing ancient animal bones in Peru when
archaeologist Gloria Salinas invited her to see El Yaral's dusty
mummies. Buried beneath house floors for nearly 1,000 years, the alpacas
and llamas had grazed El Yaral's pastures 500 years before the rise of
the Inca empire. With their legs folded under them and their heads
craned across their shoulders, they looked like a sleeping herd. For
Wheeler, who had devoted her career to counting and measuring tiny
fragments of bone, the sight of ancient animals with their nubbles of
shorn fleece and their long, lank ears was a shock. "I was really afraid
to touch the mummies," she recalls. "I had no experience working with
them." Curiosity, however, won out. Aging and sexing each of the alpacas
and llamas, she searched for signs of disease and injury and took
tissue samples. Most of the animals were male and under two years of
age, and all but one had died from a conchoidal fracture of the skull
made by a vigorous blow with a hard object. Almost certainly, says
Wheeler, the animals were ritually sacrificed by El Yaral's inhabitants.
People in the Andes still sacrifice adult llamas for the gods and bury
llama fetuses beneath their houses as sacred offerings.

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Archaeozoologist
Jane Wheeler examines a mummified suri, a variety of llama that has
virtually disappeared in Peru. The suri was found at El Yaral (below).
Holes dug where houses once stood exposed 26 mummified alpacas and
llamas among offerings of beads, feathers, and silver plaques.
Photo by Grant Delin |

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Wheeler
snipped off bits of skin and fiber from 11 standard spots on each mummy
and took them with her on a visit to the Macaulay Land Use Research
Institute in Aberdeen, Scotland. There laboratory researchers
individually mounted 200 fibers from each sample on slides and measured
them by means of a projection micro-scope. As the data rolled in,
Wheeler was amazed. El Yaral's animals were remarkably uniform in both
color and fiber size. And their fleece was astonishingly fine. Indeed,
some alpacas possessed uniform fibers of 17.9 micrometers— 4
micrometers, or sixteen hundred-thousandths of an inch, smaller in
diameter than those of a modern alpaca.
This minuscule difference
holds enormous economic implications. Among woolen manufacturers, the
finer the fiber, the softer the fabric and the higher the price.
Cashmere fiber, for example, measures just 16 micrometers in diameter.
As a result, it has become one of the world's most desirable woolens,
fetching about $70 a pound. By comparison, the slenderest alpaca fiber
today measures 22 micrometers and commands only $9 a pound. But even
that high quality fiber is uncommon. More than 90 percent of all modern
alpaca fleece is considerably coarser, bringing only a few dollars per
pound.
Wheeler was completely taken aback by the quality of El
Yaral's ancient llamas' fleece as well. In Peru today, llamas possess
fiber so coarse and scratchy that it is rarely used for textiles. Most
Peruvians employ llamas strictly as pack animals. But the llamas of El
Yaral felt silky to the touch and their fiber gleamed lustrously.
Wheeler's analysis showed why. Many of the animals had a uniform fleece
of 22.2 micrometers, as fine as the best alpaca. Moreover, as Wheeler
could see from the unshorn animals, some had been walking fiber
factories. One 12-month-old llama, for example, had grown fibers seven
inches long— a length only reached in modern animals at 24 months.
Such
a desirable combination of traits was unlikely to have come about by
chance. Wheeler believes the early Andeans had selectively bred their
herds to supply the exact needs of an ancient textile industry. And her
theory has been borne out by the calculating way in which families at El
Yaral and at a neighboring site, Chiribaya Alta, chose animals for
sacrifice and burial. They seldom slaughtered healthy, sexually mature
animals. Instead they culled very young males, a choice that made
perfect sense from an animal-breeding point of view. Only a few
top-quality-fiber males were needed as studs for the females in a herd.
The remaining males could be safely weeded out and butchered at a young
age. "So maybe what we're looking at in the mummies are the animals
whose fiber isn't good enough," Wheeler says. "And if these are the
animals they sacrificed, they had better ones."
In Wheeler's
view, the Inca who later ruled the region were likely to have been just
as skilled as the herders of ancient El Yaral. The Spanish chronicles
make several brief mentions of their prowess as breeders. The priests of
Cuzco, for example, required animals of specific colors for various
sacrificial rites, which included slowly starving llamas to death in the
city's central square so the gods would hear their screams and let
loose the rains. To supply ritualists with exactly what they needed,
Inca breeders raised pure white, black, and brown stock. "Given such
rigorous demands," says Wheeler, "it's likely that specific llama and
alpaca breeds were maintained."
All Wheeler's research pointed to
one conclusion: A critical secret of the wondrous cloth of the Andes
lay in the tiny fibers of these animals' coats.
On a sunny
austral morning, wheeler surveys a stone corral filled with the bobbing
white heads of hundreds of alpacas. Up since five and plagued by a nasty
head cold, she has spent the morning taking a photographer into the
mountains outside Arequipa to see a sparse wild herd of vicuña, the
smallest of the four camelid species that inhabit the Andes. Frustrated
by their wariness, she has stopped on the drive back to check out a
large herd of alpacas. Jammed head to tail inside a roadside corral, the
fuzzy long-necked animals seem almost to vibrate, making a humming
sound curiously akin to the swarming of a beehive. Wheeler watches
intently as herders in threadbare jeans begin releasing animals through a
narrow gate, sifting out two dozen or so marked individuals. Despite
their nearly identical white coats, the milling animals each possess a
striking individuality. "If you look long enough," says Wheeler with a
smile, "you can see the face of everyone you have ever known in these
herds."

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Researchers
neatly laid out the El Yaral mummies in a museum in the nearby town of
Moquegua. At an ancient cemetery (below) in Chiribaya Alta, southwest of
El Yaral, grave looters scattered the remains of sacrificial llamas and
alpacas found in tombs alongside mummified humans.
Photo by Grant Delin |

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In
the cold, thin air, the herders wrap their arms around the chosen
animals, wrestling them into compliance. Then they half push, half carry
them toward a waiting truck that will take them to crossbreed with
alpacas in other herds. One of the herders, a local veterinarian,
approaches Wheeler. Slipping off his dusty baseball hat, he smiles.
"Jane Wheeler," he says, "Jane Wheeler." A note of awe creeps into his
voice. "I heard you speak at a conference a few months ago."
What
he heard was one of the many pep talks that Wheeler has been delivering
lately in Peru. While reporting on the progress of her research, she
often sketches out the disasters that befell the lost Inca herds. The
early Spanish, she explains, butchered prize alpacas for meat and
rounded up entire herds to be sent to the silver mines as pack animals.
They introduced foreign germs that may have decimated both the animals
and their skilled tenders. Without the benefit of the breeders'
knowledge, the surviving Andeans ended up applying traditional
sheep-rearing practices to camelids. They ran alpaca and llama males
with the females all year round, thereby inhibiting the males sexually.
Alpaca and llama herds dwindled.
Ironically, Peru's modern
textile industry further contributed to this agricultural catastrophe.
Until recently manufacturers paid herders not by the fineness of their
fleece but by its weight: The heavier the fleece, the higher the price.
This system had the virtue of simplicity, but it led to other
unfortunate breeding practices. To bolster their paltry earnings, Andean
herders crossed alpacas with larger and heavier llamas. This produced
animals enveloped in a coarse fleece riddled with useless guard hair,
the antithesis of the fiber that made Inca cloth famous.
During
Wheeler's student years at Cambridge University, one of her professors
had insisted that to do good archaeozoology, a researcher had to
understand and work with living animals. Wheeler never forgot. And
seeing the sad state of modern alpacas and llamas has fueled her
determination over the years to resurrect the Inca fiber.
As a
first step, she needed a quick genetic test to distinguish alpaca
hybrids from purebreds. Wheeler had to start from scratch, first
building a DNA bank containing representative blood samples from all
four species of South American camelid, including the vicuña, a species
hunted almost to extinction for its superfine fleece, and the guanaco,
another endangered wild species. Undaunted, she set off with her
husband, Raœl Rosadios, and British geneticist Helen Stanley on an
extended road trip to remote mountain communities in Peru, Chile,
Bolivia, and Argentina. At each stop, Rosadios bled the animals, storing
the samples in rows of lilac-colored vacuum containers. Their small
Nissan truck was soon crammed with vials from 580 animals, the
beginnings of a DNA bank that has now expanded to more than 2,000
camelids.
At the Institute of Zoology in London, geneticists
Miranda Kadwell and Michael Bruford began analyzing the samples,
searching for molecular markers capable of distinguishing one species
from another. They concentrated on small, repeated nuclear DNA sections
known as microsatellites, which have proven useful in detecting hybrids
in other species. Bruford and Kadwell found two microsatellites whose
variants clearly separated the two wild camelids— the vicuña and
guanaco— from one another. Then they looked to see the proportion of
these markers in the domesticated camelids. Wheeler had long maintained,
based on her earlier work with camelid skeletons, that the alpaca was a
domesticated vicuña and as such belonged in a different genus than the
llama. Many zoologists had disagreed, tracing the lineage of the alpaca
either to the guanaco or the llama on the basis of certain physical
traits. But Bruford and Kadwell's work suggested that Wheeler was
correct. "The vicuña are the most likely ancestor of the alpaca, and the
guanaco are the most likely ancestor of the llama," says Bruford, a
biodiversity researcher now at Cardiff University.

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In
a Peruvian textile factory in the city of Arequipa, some 500 miles
southeast of Lima, generations of women have learned to rapidly sort
alpaca fiber into five qualities of fineness merely by touch,
distinguishing diameter differences of as small as one micrometer— one
hundred-thousandth of an inch.
Photo by Grant Delin |
Next,
Bruford developed a DNA test to identify purebred alpacas and llamas.
With this, Wheeler and her Peruvian colleagues began methodically
testing samples in the new gene bank. Hybridization, she soon
discovered, was a far greater problem than anyone had suspected. Forty
percent of the tested llamas were hybrids, with at least one or more
alpaca or vicuña ancestor. Ninety-two percent of the alpacas were
crosses. "The other thing that we discovered is that it's not possible
to tell whether an alpaca or a llama is a purebred by looking at it,"
says Wheeler. "It's necessary to do DNA tests to certify purity."
With
the new DNA testing, the team plans to survey alpacas and llamas across
the Andes in search of relict purebred populations. Herders could then
segregate the purebreds in elite herds and begin breeding animals with
fine fleece much the way their ancestors did, by weeding out inferior
males. "The basis will then be laid for improving alpaca fiber
production in general because initial results indicate that there is at
least some link between fine fiber and pure animals," says Wheeler.
She
and Bruford are developing methods of improving herds by searching for a
genetic marker for fine fiber. A simple DNA test for the trait would
permit breeders to assemble purebred herds possessing exactly the right
genes for producing superfine fiber. Breeders could then superovulate
females from these herds and transfer their purebred, fine-fleeced
embryos to low-quality-fiber females. "You could in a relatively short
time have a herd with fine fiber that is genetically pure," Wheeler
says.
As the team searches for financial sponsors for these
projects, Wheeler is working on ways to lower the price of existing
technology. At $200 per animal, the DNA test for purity is too expensive
for most Andean breeders. So she and Rosadios are developing one that
eliminates the expensive imported radioisotopes. "In the very short
term, we'll have the price down to less than $50 and hopefully
considerably lower," Wheeler says. Moreover, she is scouting for
international backers for a new camelid research institute in Lima. "The
idea is to include all aspects of the problem, from DNA tests to
analyzing fiber, and getting the results out to benefit the herders."
Wheeler
acknowledges that many scientific and practical obstacles lie ahead
before Peruvians can once again produce fabric as seductive as the cloth
of the Inca. But her dogged quest has attracted interest from both
international woolen experts and Peru's own textile manufacturers. "What
we see with Jane's mummies is that the Inca were very good at
developing the genetics of good quality and uniform-color fiber," says
François Patthey, a director at Grupo Inca, one of Peru's largest
alpaca-cloth manufacturers. "If we had that today, it would be really
fantastic."